Carstensz Pyramid
At 16,023ft (4,884 m), Carstensz Pyramid, or Puncak Jaya ("Victory Peak") as the Indonesians call it, is located in the western central highlands and is the highest peak in Oceania, Australia continent. The mountain was named after Jan Carstensz, a Dutch explorer who was the first European to sight the peak.
In 1936, the Royal Netherlands Geographical Society sponsored Colijn and two companions in another attempt to climb the island's highest peak. They climbed Ngga Pulu, which they thought to be the highest. With the rapid shrinking of the region's glaciers, the rocky summit of Carstenz has since been found to be higher. War then intervened, and throughout the 50s, the Himalayas and Andes were the focal point of Mountaineering. It was not until 1960s that climbers began to think seriously of Carstensz once more.
In 1962, Heinrich Harrer became the first foreigner to reach the peak. He was a veteran of the first ascent of the Eiger's North Face. Harrer also recruited Russell Kippax, and a Dutch patrol officer, Albert Huizenga. This time, the airdrop went as planned and the group climbed 32 summits, including the first ascent of the Carstensz Pyramid by what is now the Normal Route via the North FAce and upper West Ridge. His book, "I Come from the Stone Age", provides excellent reading about climbing Carstensz and other peaks in the area as well as his experiences while living with the Dani.
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| General |
The Normal Route
Most parties climb directly out of the first notch via a strenuous pitch, but the first Carstensz climbers avoided this by descending on to the South Face and following broken ledges until the crest could be regained. The average ascent time is seven hours.
East Ridge
A long ascent in a fine position, mostly scrambling but with several more difficult narrow sections and some loose rocks.
The American Direct
A direct line straight up the summit fall-line giving superb climbing at a continuous grade on the top headwall. |
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| Targeted Activities |
Camping, Hiking, Mountaineering, Rock Climbing |
| Season Availability: |
January only
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| Altitude: |
4884- meters |
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Adventures International Inc.
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Hood River / Oregon / United States
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Starting Price: $200.00
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Explore Your Planet with one of the most unique guide services anywhere!...
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Basics & Backgrounds
in Dutch
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